the old and the new

What's Warsaw like? what is its prevalent atmosphere? is it a historic town? or does it feel more modern? does it hold to its tradition? or does it look ahead?...

Well the city is an architectural  and schizoephrenic rollercoaster and the pictures above hardly give you a taste of it.

the Palace on the Isle - by night

Let's have a peek inside this charming palace... by night.
We are greeted by Mars, the god of war... but is he fighting? no, he's relaxing, with a putto at his feet.

 He's accompanied by the allegory of Poland at her glory. Obviously - peace has come, so the state is in blossom when the warfare god is having a rest.

 The round room next to the entrance hall further emphasizes how the state can thrive: under the reign of rulers like these Polish kings...

Oh, interiors of the 18th century palaces are full of stories and hidden messages - especially those designed by and for the last Polish king, the enlightened Stanisław.

Normally you visit these interiors in daylight, but every now and then lectures, concerts etc take place here - then you can admire the rooms from a new perspective. I strongly recommend! (at every part of day and night)

early autumn in the Łazienki Royal Park

It's still only the begining of October, so the "Polish golden autumn" has hardly begun. The glory of colourful leaves will be at its peak later this month.

Whatever the season though, the Łazienki Royal Park is always a place to admire.
I went down along Agrykola Street. This is the first place in Warsaw where gas lanterns were installed.

I was greeted by Jan III Sobieski, a Polish king and a renowned army commander. (I love how his glory is highlighted by the tree in the background ^_^)

The Palace on the Island. Where will you find a palace such craftily designed to reflect in the mirror of water?

On the front terrace of the Palace a lot of activities is taking place. Either a nymph is wooing a god by the name of Hermaphroditus (alas, she was rejected)...

 ...or a Satyr is dancing with a Bachante...

Two sculptures in the terrace corners represent two great Polish rivers: Bug and Wisła.

 King Stanisław, who had the park arranged, was keen to have open-air theatre plays - not only for himself and his court, but also for Warsaw citizens. Plays took place here...

 ...where the audience is surrounded by play-wrights and poets of all epochs.

 After climbing the escarpment I arrived at the modernist part of the garden where the best-known monument of Chopin can be found.

Previous sneak-peeks of Warsaw autumn: in Łazienki and around the city centre.

Old Town churches...

...graciously posing all together in one photo:

• Święty Marcin (St. Martin's), in Piwna St. The narrow street makes you look up at the flowing baroque facade and admire it at a sharp angle - which is exactly how it should be done.
• Jezuitów (Jesuits') in Świętojańska St., with the unexpected modern entrance door designed by Mitoraj.
• The Cathedral just beside - the red brick suggests a long history - and even though the bricks are much less than a century old - the temple indeed holds centuries of Warsaw and Polish memories.

Oh yes, you can't know all this just from a glimpse of the roofs~! Go and see for yourself!

Marx, Engels, Lenin...

...the list of fathers of the rightly begone political system... shouldn't there be somebody more?

Who's another important person whose presence in the history of central-eastern Europe cannot be overlooked?
Yep, there is still enough space on the book cover for one more name: Stalin.

The name was erased already well over 60 years ago at the period called "the Taw", which commenced after the death of the dictator.  It was a time when the communist top decided to give up the "worship of an indivdual", which had been all the rage over the 40s and early 50s, while "the sun of nations" was still alive. And so his name dissapeared from the list of forefathers.
(some sources claim that it happened in the 80s, during the surge of the opposition movement.)

The statue adorns the most emblematic symbol of the communism in Warsaw - the Palace of Science and Culture. When you walk around the Palace, you will find other statues representing arts, technologies, continents... all enlightned by the only right idealogy.
The Palace itself was constructed as a gift from the Soviet Russia - upon its completion in 1955, it was honoured with Stalin as its patron - his name is still there in the offical title, though unspoken...


About 10 years ago a member of the city council suggested that the names on the statue's book should be erased - at least the current last name. The founders of the socialist theory could be left as are, but Lenin, who was forcefully implementing the ideology both inhouse and abroad, must dissappear. Lenin's name in a public place, went on the council member,  is a disgrace, as well as an instance of promoting communism - which is actually a crime, just like promoting nazizm...

The suggestion arose controversies: should this be done?
Yes - because the city and the land which suffered so much from Lenin's politics should not bear his name in a public place. We have already removed names of communist politics from our streets and squares, this one still remians here.
No - the palace is already a monument and there should not be any ingeration into its form. As a monument it is  a witness of the begone era - its ornaments tell us about our history.

Apparently the latter approach prevailed, if the statue with its book is still here.

However the idea of pulling down the palace altogether still keeps returning! As said, the building is often perceived as the most consipucous remnant of the Russian past domination. Will its status of a monument save it?
Personally I hope so.

New Year in Warsaw

Hello 2019!
The new year started rainy and sombre, but the Christmas illuminations which adorn the Royal Route and other popular places light up the night!

"Stolica wolności 1918-2018" - "the capital  of independence" reminds us that the last year was an anniversary of the Polish rebirth as a state.

On the Old Square an ice rink surrounds the mermaid. After a skating ride you can stop at one of the Christmas market stalls and recharge your batteries with

• a piece of "grilowana kiełbasa" - grilled sausage, 
• "chleb ze smalcem" - a slice of bread with lard,  
• "oscypek" - salty cheese from the Polish mountains,
• "grzane wino" - mulled wine...

Anyway... no matter the festive illuminations, many buildings present their better self at night...

Here - Zachęta, the National Gallery of Art.