Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

A scar from the World War 2: an empty square and the arches in the middle.

 This is the most venerable place in Warsaw, guarded by soliders 24/7 where official visits by presidents and foreign dignitaries need to pay their honours. An eternal flame is always lit.

The arcade is the remains of the Saxon Palace (Pałac Saski) - "Saxon", because in the beginning of the 18th century it belonged to Augustus II the Strong - a Polish king, who was also an Elector of Saxony (chronologically: first a Saxon elector; then chosen by Polish noblemen to become a Polish king). The arches date back to a 19th century remodelling, when the place belonged to a Russian tradesman. 

In the interwar period of the 20th century it was a seat of the Polish General Staff. You can look up its 1930s look at Wikipedia - and compare with the current state.

It was the interwar period when the place under the arcade gained its current importance. Like elsewhere in Europe in the 1920s, nations wanted to honour the soldiers who fell during the Great War. In Warsaw it was this place in the military headquarters that was picked as an appropriate one. From one of recent battlefields a bereft mother whose son never returned picked a coffin of one of many N.N.s who died in the battle of Lemberg (Lwów). The body was exhumed and transported with all honours to be buried here in 1925. 

During the Second World War the palace was taken over as German military offices. When the palace was blown up in 1944 this arcade partially survived. Why? I've read different explanations. One suggests that even German sappers had respect for the blood sacrifice of the buried soldier and so the explosives were placed far enough to spare this grave...

Unlike the Old Town and a couple of other monuments, the Saxon palace was never rebuilt. A heated discussion whether it should be or not continues up to this day. 

Only the arcades of the Tomb were renovated so that they can hold the grave of the soldier. The shape of the Tomb was only somewhat altered in comparison to the pre-war form.

The tomb is guarded by Representative Honour Guard Regiment without a break. The guards change every hour. The most spectacular change takes place at noon.

From the very beginning the columns were decorated with stone tablets which commemorate battlefields soaked with Polish blood. After the World War II there were some changes in the displayed names, but after 1989 the original ones were returned. Also new battefield names were added.

Address: Piłsudski Square. You can't miss it. It's just a few steps away from the Royal Route, so it's worth walking to the Square and pay a tribute of reflection.

Electio Viritim

„Electio viritim” means „personal choice” or „choice/election in person”. It’s a Latin expression which pointed to the personal participation of Polish noblemen in election of our monarchs. „Electio viritim” is also the name of a monument which you can find at Ostroroga street in the Wola district.

While in most kingdoms or principalities power was hereditary, in Poland it was so only to a certain extent. When the great dynasty of the Jagiellonians left no male descendant in 1572, the Polish parliament decided to elect their monarchs from then on. This tradition continued until the fall of the first Polish Republic (1795). The system was a kind of prototype of democracy, save that in Poland the right to vote was cherished only by noblemen. Nevertheless: ALL noblemen, no matter how high or low their standing. As long as they could afford to come to Warsaw, they could cast their vote in the election.

We had 11 elected kings and some of them were foreigners. The first one was a French prince (Henry of Valois, known in Poland as Henryk Walezy; French: Henri III) – his election took place on the Meadow of Kamion in 1573 – Kamion was a village across the river.

Most of subsequent elections took place on the left side of the river, beside the village of Wola which was pointed as the election field by the parliament decision as of 1587. The highest achievement of “Golden Liberty” of Polish nobility, the “free election” took place here in Wola: 10 elections over the period of 200 years. And this very place is now commemorated by the monument „Electio viritim”.

The monument was erected in 1997. It consists of a granite column, topped with a crown. In front there’s a plaque which explains the significance of the object and the place where it’s located. Above the plaque there are three characters shaking hands. They are taken after a 18th century painting by Canaletto: „Election of king Stanisław August”. The three men symbolize agreement and unanimity of all nobility participating in the election – an absolute requirement for a king to be elected (although not always achieved, and with time substituted with ruse or military power). (the original painting can be seen in the Royal Castle – I strongly recommend the room of Canaletto’s paintings). 

Around the column there’s a semi-circle with portraits of the elected kings. 

The election field was a temporary construction, consisting of wooden buildings, set up only for the time of the event. Therefore there are no material remains of it. What has survived, though, are some etymological signs. The name of the Obozowa street might derive from “election camp” (obóz elekcyjny). The name of neighbouring residential area, a village in the olden days, Koło (Circle) comes from the "circle of knights" (koło rycerskie) where the regional representatives presided.

 

The monument address: Ostroroga street (at the crossroad with Obozowa and Banderii)

The monument is located away from typical tourist routes, but if you happen to be around it’s close to the protestant cemeteries: the Lutheran cemetery (Młynarska 54/56/58) and the Calvinist Protestant cemetery (Żytnia 42) just beside. Both are very atmospheric, full of beautiful old tombs and history of Warsaw citizens.

Christmas Illuminations 2020

This year's illuminations are supposed to be somewhat more modest due to the special circumstances we are all facing in 2020. I can't really tell, perhaps they are... at the same time, though, there are some new elements introduced.

In spite of the lockdown* the afternoon Royal Route was overflowing with people. I imagine there are fewer tourists, because of the travelling restrictions, and more locals in their place. I was really amazed at the number of people – but isn't it obvious. Normally the crowd would be distributed also in culture venues, bars and restaurants. Everyone must be tired of strolls in their own residential areas (like I am!) – and the illuminations are tempting to go out and feel the festive time approaching. This at least!

A walk along Nowy Świat Street.

 We happened to see a kind of dance/theatre performance taking place in the windows of Nowy Świat Muzyki.

A horse tram in front of the Staszic Palace.

Hotel Bristol on the right; Hotel Europejski on the left.

In front of the Royal Castle.

This year no Christmas market on the Old Town Square; no ice rink either.

The New Town square.

 To take you back in time to the Christmas views in Warsaw as seen by me: last year and two years ago.

*The Polish government is allergic to the word „lockdown” - they are introducing random measures which basically amount to an actual lockdown (not as strict as in most European countries this autumn/winter).

Warsaw - Istambul

Have we just arrived in Istambul?

Are we looking at a mosaic art piece? so many of them in the underground passages of Istambul...

No, we aren't! we are in Warsaw. Waters of Bosfor mix with those of Vistula river:

This mosiac is located at Metro Politechnika, in the southern passage. It was founded by the Turkish government in 2014 in order to celebrate the 600th anniversary of Polish-Turkish official relations.

another autumn in the Łazienki Royal Park

 Even though I arrived there already at sunset, the park presented itself as if lit from whithin - thanks to the "fire" of golden leaves.

I rely completely on the automatic settings of my mobile phone camera. Still it sometimes leaves me with dilemmas: should I pick the colorful autumn effect...

...or the twilight, with the moon visible in the sky?

I came across a white peacock! at first I assumed it was an albino, but then I learnt it was a regular peacock, whose recessive genes played stronger and bestowed it with this unussual feathers.

Finally, a meeting with Chopin who was admiring the moonlight.

Polish golden autumn and two Warsaw parks

 Last Saturday I decided to indulge in the legendary "Polish golden autumn" - and witness its glory in two parks in Warsaw.

First I visited the Krasiński Garden. I entered through the Baroque gate, crowned with the coat d'arms of the Krasiński aristocratic family.

 At the other side of the Garden the 17th century Palace is located. It is now a section of the National Library, it houses the Special Collection section.

 After leaving the Garden I hopped on a bus in order to reach the Saski Garden, another remainder of the Baroque period.

Its palace was destroyed in the war (only a part survived, which holds the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier). I's mostly the sculptures which remind us of the old times. Arts, virtues...

the Peace Bell in Warsaw

In 2015 the Japanese ambassador unveiled the Peace Bell on the premises of Służewski Dom Kultury (Służew Community Centre).

The bell has been founded by the World Peace Bell Association - a Japanese organization whose purpose is to raise awareness of the world peace movement. They do so by casting and locating peace bells all over the world in major cities.
The idea originated in Japan, so dramatically affected by the A-bomb. Hence the Association and its mission to eradicate war and all nuclear weapons from the earth.
And Warsaw, who saw war (see the pun?), destroyed in 80%, erased to the ground in many places - it's a perfect place to call for peace.

This is why Warsaw is one of 19 capitals where peace bells are located. Actually it's not the first peace bell to stand here. Originally a bell was founded already in 1989, in a different place, just standing freely among blocks of flats. Unfortunately it was stolen a few years later. So this is the second attempt ;-) I believe it will be more succesful, as this one is located on the premises of a culture centre, so here it will be constantly surveyed. Also the backdrop is well fitting: the green, the quiet... Additionally, some Japanese themed events take place here every year.

Beside the bell pagoda there's also a wooden pole with a prayer for peace in Polish and in Japanese.

By the way... Last year I took part in a short report about this place for the local TV channel. It's all in Polish, but you can see the whereabouts and a broader view. My part starts at  00:46 min.

A few words about Służewski Dom Kultury (Służewiec Community Centre), the host of the bell. It's located in a valley of the Służew Stream (Potok Służewiecki). In its present form it was opened in 2013. Its modern form borrows from countryside settlements and  hints of Scandinavian achitecture. Super charming and functional.

And just to compare - this is a peacebell in Hiroshima. 

And the peace bell of New York in front of the UN head quarters.